31 August 2015

Min farmors folkedragt

Da mine farforældre stoppede med at danse folkedans, gav min farmor mig sin folke(danser)dragt. Jeg har længe gerne ville omsy den til mig selv, men det var svært at samle mod til. Da min farmor døde i april, æret være hendes minde, besluttede jeg mig til at nu skulle det være.
My grandmother gave me her folk dress. I wanted to alter it to fit me, but had difficulty gathering the courage for it. When she died in april, honored be her memory, I decided that now was the time.

Jeg har omsyet bærestykket, så i stedet for at det er en hel kjole, er det en vest.
I have altered the bodice, so in stead of having a ful dress it is a waistcoat with a skirt that attaches to it.


Den oprindelige kjole har buede sidebagstykker som i empire og overskæring ved den naturlige talje, altså ret højt oppe. Det placerer stilen mellem 1820-1840. Men den har også en høj halsudskæring, lange, smalle ærmer og vidden i nederdelen samlet bagpå. Det peger mod 1870-1890.
Jeg ville gerne gøre stilen lidt mere entydig. Nu var moden ikke lige så udpræget i folkedragter som i de rigere folks tøj. Dels var bønderbefolkningen mere konservative, dels var tøj meget dyrt og man skiftede det ikke bare ud.

Men alligevel kan jeg godt gøre stilen mere udpræget 1820-1840. Det gjorde jeg ved at skille nederdel og overdel fra hinanden og lave overdelen om til en bul (kvindevest). Bul gik af brug omkring 1840.
 
Desuden kan jeg enormt godt lide stilen hvor man har bul, strikket rød trøje (kaldet nattrøje) og skorte på, hvor man kan se hvert af lagene. Det passer også godt til stilen fra Sjælland, og specifikt Syd- og Østsjælland, hvor jeg er vokset op. Dette sæt er fra Østsjælland, mere specifikt Stevns.

The dress has arched side back pieces as in regency, and a rather high waist, which is around1820-1840. But is also has a high neckline, long narrow sleeves, and width gathered at the back. That points to the 1870-1890. When making folk dresses, they are most often used for dancing folk dance, and my grandmother have probably chosen to make the dress easy and comfortable for her, rather than 100% authentic.

Fashion wasn't a pronounced in folk dresses as in rich people's clothing. They were more conservative, and also clothing was extremely expensive, and you didn't just got new clothes.But I would like to make the dress point more towards 1820-1840. I separated skirt and bodice from each other and made the bodice into a bul (womens' waistcoat). Bul went out of use around 1840.

I really like the style with bul, knitted blouse, and shirt, where each layer show. It also fits with the style from Sjælland (Zealand), specifically East Zealand where I grew up. Thios one is from Stevns.


Nu følger lige 50 billeder af kjolen før og undervejs.
Now about 50 pictures of the dress before and during the altering.




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Jeg fjernede ærmerne.
I removed the sleeves.

Og sprættede foerets sidesømmen op.
Ripped the sideseams of the lining.



Bærestykket havde en kile i hver side. Det passede fint med at når jeg fjernede dem, ville bærestykket passe mig i størrelsen.
The bodice had a wedge in each side. When I removed them, the bodice-become-waistcoat would fit me jsut right.



Bærestykket helt sprættet op i siderne.


Og så syede jeg den sammen igen. Bærestykket er lavet på en interesssant måde, hvor yderstoffets dele først er syet sammen og derefter er foerets dele syet direkte på yderdelene.
Så den metode gentog jeg selvfølgelig, da jeg syede delene sammen igen. And sewed the waistcoat back together. It was made in an interesting way. First the fashion pieces was sewn together and the the pieces of lining was sewn directly onto the fashion fabric. I of course did this when I sewed the parts back together.

Måle og tegne til ny halsudskæring.
Measuring and drawing a new neckline.

Klip, pyyyyh det gik uden at ødelægge noget.
Whew, Didn't destroy anything.

Og sy sammen igen.
And I sewed it back together.

Første omgang overstået.
First heat done.

Næste bliver at gå i gang med at strikke den røde nattrøje (det hedder de altså), som man har på under bul'en. Her er en fra 1800-tallet.
Next one is knitting a nattrøje (knitted blouse) to wear underneath the waistcoat. Here a 19th century one.

Og så skal jeg lave en kyse. Ingen folkedragt uden kyse. Dette er min farmors, med guldnakke og hele pivtøjet, wow! Så fancy bliver min ikke.
And then I need a coif. No folk dress without a coif. This is my grandmothers coif, with gold neck and the lot. Mine wont be as fancy.


Og så skal jeg have et skuldertørklæde i silke. Måske et godt julegaveønske.
And a silk shoulder scarf. Maybe a good christmas wish.

NB! I disse billeder har jeg hverken forklæde, kyse, nattrøje eller skuldertørklæde på. En folkedragt er kun halvvejs uden disse dele. Se billedet herunder for hele sættet.
NB! I these pictures I have neither apron, coif, knitted blouse or should scarf on. They must be added to obtain the authentic look of a Danish folk dress.
When I am done with the whole thing, the outfit will look something like the one from the beginning of the post:

4 comments:

Dejana Dee GV said...

I love how respectfully and gently you refashioned your grandmother's dress. It is a beautiful project. I am sure that some ornaments for the coif will come your way, and if not - you could gold spray paint some lace (I saw this done by one of Refashion runaway contestants on Renegade Semastress blog). Keep up the wonderful work!

Sabrina said...

I am amazed, not only by your skill, but by your willingness to work on something so old and treasured! Impressive!

Dee said...

I love it!! such a labour of love and patience to carefully deconstruct and reconstruct it. Please post a link in the refashioning site so that we can come back and see what you have done (even if not a strict refashion... perhaps you may get to use some lovely old fabric to refashion for other parts so that it is a refashion. ;)

I was about to good 'Zealand' to find out where it is as I am an Aussie and New Zealand is so close by. Now I know it is in Denmark. I will still look it up as i love learning new things about other parts of the world.

Saga said...

Thank you.
Dejana, the gold necks are simply not being made anymore. My grandmother's is from at latest 1840.
Sabrina, it has taken me a long time before I dared to do it.
Dee, I will, maybe at the end of a refashion post.
New Zealand is named after either Zealand (Sjælland) in Denmark or Zeeland in the Netherlands.