06 December 2016

Opdateret vinterfrakke

Endelig er jeg færdig med at omsy min vinterfrakke. Hold op det har taget lang tid. Så jeg skulle naturligvis have den på i dag, selvom det er alt for varmt til vinterfrakke.
Finally I finished the refashion of my winter coat. It has taken absolutely forever, mostly due to lots of seamripping and handstitching
Now it was finished, I HAD to wear it today, even though temperatures are still unseasonably high here (about 3-8 C (37-46 F)).
I was boiling even though I only wore a thin shirt underneath. But I suffered gladly for (re)fashion. And winter will probably (hopefully) come at some point.

Min vinterfrakke. En rigtig lækker varm Merrell. Desværre var lynlåsen gået.
Jeg trak vejret dybt og gik i gang med at skifte den. Jeg valgte at bruge en rød lynlås, der matchede det eksisterende røde foer.
Jeg brugte en hel aften på at frigøre den gamle lynlås fra frakken. Så placerede jeg den nye lynlås. Jeg syede først lynlåsen på foerets kant, og derefter på yderstoffets kant.
Lynlåsen var en anelse længere end den oprindelige lynlås, så jeg tilpassede frakken til lynlåsen. Jdg håndsyede det nederste stykke. Jeg syede ikke lynlåsen fast øverst ved halskanten endnu.


The zipper was broken. I started by spending an entire evening removing it.
Then I stitched the new zipper in its place. First I stitched the zipper to the lining fabric and then to the fashion fabric. It took almost as long as removing the old zipper to insert the new one and required large amounts of tea and chocolate.

The new zipper was slightly longer than the original, so I adapted the coat to that. I handstitched the lowermost part. I didn't sew the top part of the zipper just yet.

Frakken havde altid være lidt smal om hofterne til mig, og jeg ville desuden gerne bedre kunne bruge den til at cykle i om vinteren.
Jeg sprættede sidesømmene op. Igen et kæmpe arbejde, da de var syet virkelig grundigt.
The coat has always been slightly tight around my hips. I wanted to more comfortably be able to use the coat when cycling in winter, so I decided to make side gussets (or would it be more correct to call them godets?).
I opened the sideseams - again, took forever.


Jeg lavede foer-kiler med volumenvlies strøget på. Jeg ville egentlig have brugt thinsulate, men kunne ikke finde det i mine lokale stofbutikker, der ellers har ført det. Og syede dem på (med jakken på vrangen så godt som det nu lod sig gøre).
I made gussets  for the lining. I ironed on thin volume vlies on them.
I stitched them to he lining of the coat (part of the coat on the wrong side).

Så gjorde jeg det samme med de ydre kiler. De er lavet af uldrib fra Skipper Stoffer. De ydre kiler er lavet med læg for den bedst mulige pasform. Øverst ved ærmerne er de håndsyet på.
Jeg sømmede foer-kilerne og yderkilerne hver for sig, så de kan bevæge sig individuelt og den ene ikke buler op.
I did the same with the outer gussets. They are made from wool rib. They have a pleat to fit me best.
I hemmed the lining gussets and the fashion fabric gusset individually, so they wouldn't pull at eash other.

Jeg fjernede de gamle ribmanchetter og erstattede dem med nye i den røde uldrib. De er 8 cm lange.
Jeg erindrer ikke helt hvordan jeg fik sandwichet alle lagene på en måde så jeg kunne sy det sammen - eller også har jeg fortrængt det.
I removed the old ribbed edges of the sleeves, and replaced them with red wool ribbing. They are 8 cm (3 1/8").
I don't quite remember how I sandwiched the fabric in order to be able to sew everything together - or maybe I have repressed it...

Jeg fjernede ribkanten ved halsen. Den havde altid være meget stram og stiv (har ikke noget billede af den). Jeg havde egentlig planlagt at erstatte den med den røde uldrib, men fandt ud af, at jeg foretrak frakken helt uden ribkanten.

Da jeg fjernede ribkanten, blev frakkens hætte samtidig delt fra frakken. Jeg syede ydersiden af hætten på frakken igen på symaskine og derefter syede jeg indersiden af hætten på frakken fra retsiden med små stige-sting i hånden.

Til sidst syede jeg toppen af lynlåsen, kanten af hætten og frakkens overkant med små stige-sting også. Da ribkanten var fjernet, var der en rå kant af lynlåsen i begge sider. Jeg syede et smalt lyseblåt bånd (der havde siddet mellem hætte og ribkant) på i begge sider i hånden for at dække det.

I removed the ribbed edge by the neck. It had always been tight and stiff. I planned to replace it with the red wool rib, but realised that I liked the coat better without a ribbed neck edge altogether (I maight make a dickey out of the remaining wool rib though).

When I removed the ribbed neck edge, the hood was split from the coat as well. I stiched the fashion fabric of the coat and the hood on the sewing machine and then the linings by hand.

Lastly I handstiched the upper zipper, the vertical edges of the hood and the upper edge of the coat in tiny stiches.
To hide the edge of the top of the zipper (previously it would have been covered by the neck ribbing) i handstitched a narrow light blue ribbon on top of it (the ribbon had been at the hood edge before).


Den færdige frakke:
Finished:


1 comment:

SJ Kurtz said...

I came here from the Refashion CoOp page: this is a very sharp alteration. It could have gone very badly, and instead it's more beautiful than possible.

Inspiring!