23 august 2018

My first FBA

I have a large bust and a small underbust. My back is also small.

If I choose size based on my bust measurement, I have so much extra fabric billowing out below my bust.

If I choose size based on my torso, the garment is to small at my bust.

Enter FBA.

I own a book of sewing patterns, 'Sew Many Dresses, So Little Time'. It is unique in that you yourself combine the various elements which make up a dress, to make you own dress.
It also advices on how to make an FBA, Full Bust Adjustment, and this was the first dress I made an FBA on.


I was initially a bit scared of FBAs, I thought they seemed rather complicated.

But I followed the instructions closely:
Mark bust points. Measure 2 cm from the busy point. Draw lines outwards and downwards. Cut and spread.

And that was it.... was that all there was to it?
And it looked right!

Then just to tape pattern paper under the spread areas.
It was so much simpler than I thought.

I also made a swayback adjustment and a high round back adjustment (HRBA).

But if course the real test was if the fit in the final dress was good


Underway.

The final dress fit so well (in the photo I twist my body slightly).
Very happy with loosing the underbust bilowing.


I very much appreciate being able to "build" my own unique dresses. No more bad fit.



Pattern:
- Bodice: Basic.
- Neckline: Scoop.
- Sleeves: Cap sleeve.
- Skirt: 3/4 circle.
Fabric: 100% cotton from Stoff & Stil (2016)
Size: Bodice and sleeves size 5, skirt size 6. These sizes roughly corresponds to size M and L.

Modifications:
- FBA, Full Bust Adjustment.
- Swayback adjustment.
- High round back adjustment.
- Adjustment for short shoulder to waist length.m

22 august 2018

Fra ærmer til bindebånd - From sleeves to ties

Det var varmt. Meget varmt. Så denne tynde behagelige viscosekjole med det fineste lille mønster, var lige hvad jeg havde brug for. Den var bare lidt kedelig, og så var ærmerne heller ikke lige det, jeg havde brug for. Så jeg redesignede den, og den var i konstant rotation i hele juli.
The wather was warm. Very warm. So this dress in a lovely thing viscose (rayon) was just what I needed. Only it was a little dull, and I didn't need or want the sleeves. So I redesigned the dress, and used it constantly for the entire July.
 - Jeg fjernede ærmerne.
- Jeg brugte lidt af stoffet fra ærmerne til at lave skråbånd, som jeg brugte til at kante ærmegabene med.
- Af resten af ærmestoffet lavede jeg to lange bindebånd, som jeg fæstnede i siderne.
- I removed the sleeves.
- Out of a little of the sleeve fabric I made bias tape, which I used to finish the arm holes.

- Out of the reste of the sleeve fabric I made two long ties, which I inserted in into the side seams.

 Bindebåndene er lange nok til at jeg kan binde på forskellige måder:
The ties are long enough for me to be able to ties them in different ways:

Bag om ryggen og binde fortil.
Around the back and tied in the front.

Kun bundet fortil.
Only tied in the front.

 Kun bundet bagtil.
Only tied in the back.

Forom og bundet på ryggen.
Around the front and tied at the back.

Den kunne også bruges med en underkjole eller stopkjole under for et nyt udtryk, og det gør den også brugbar i koldere vejr. 



04 august 2018

Jumpsuit en halv meter kortere - Jumpsuit shortened a lot

Vi sov på terrassen i går nat. Herligt køligt.
Jeg blev nødt til at have denne jumpsuit. Jeg er vild med stoffet med vilde blomster og det er en virkelig behagelig viscosejersey. Den var bare aaaalt for lang, både i overdelen, størrelsen på halsudskæringen og i længden på benene. Desuden sad elastikken i taljen ret mystisk på mig. Og det vel at mærke selvom størrelsen i bredden var helt fin.
I had to have this jumpsuit. I love the fabric with small wildflowers, and the fabric is a viscose (rayon) jersey, which is very comfortable against the skin. Only the jumpsuit was waaaay too long on me. Both the bodice, the width of the neckline, and the length of the legs. And that even though the width was just fine. 


Jeg pillede overdel og underdel fra hinanden. Og pillede elastikken helt af.
Jeg pillede det meste af sømmen i ærmegabet op, bortset fra nederst, altså i armhulen.
Jeg gjorde halsudskæringen mindre ved at tage ind i skuldersømmen.
 Jeg gjorde ærmekuplen tilsvarende mindre. Og så syede jeg ærmet på ærmegabet igen.
Jeg kortede overdelen af, så den svarer til min talje.
Så syede jeg underdelen på overdelen igen.
Jeg syede elastikken på i taljen igen.
Til sidst kortede jeg benene af.
I took the bodice and the "trousers" apart. And removed the waist elastic.
I picked out the sleeve seam, except at the bottom, in the armpit.

 I took the neckline in at the shoulder seam.
I made the sleeve cap correspondingly smaller, and stitched the sleeve back into the arm hole.
I shortened the bodice, so it would reach my waist.
Then I sewed the bodice and the "trousers" back together.
I stitched the elastic into the waist again.
Lastly I shortened the legs.


Jeg havde jumpsuiten på første gang på en længere togtur. Det var helt perfekt. Den var så blød og rar, og perfekt til både ventetid på varme togstationer og kølige airconditionerede tog (hvor man nemt kan få træk).
I wore the jumpsuit first time on a long train ride. It was perfect for the purpose. Soft and comfortable, and perfect for both waiting time on hot train stations, and for cool airconditioned trains.

Jeg kan bedst lide jumpsuiten med et bælte, men den er også ok uden.
I like the jumpsuit best with a belt, but it is ok without one too.

Kjole bare en anelse større - Dress just a tad larger

Denne kjole hoppede nærmest op i armene på mig, da jeg fandt den i genbrugsforretningen. Den var så meget mig (beklager kvaliteten af billed...